Rock Climbing

Rock Climbing

500ROCK CLIMBING IN THE SOUTH LOCH NESS AREA

South Loch Ness has some 12 listed crags in the area grouped between Inverfarigaig and Loch Duntelchaig and bounded to the south by the River Nairn. These cater for Traditional Climbing (Trad), Sport Climbing (Sport), there are also some popular bouldering locations (Bouldering).



Name

Type

No of Routes

Rock Type

Dunlichty/Bunachton

Trad

10

Gneiss

Barry Valley

Bouldering

126

Gneiss

Duntelchaig

Trad/Bouldering

112

Gneiss

Pinnacle Crag

Trad

23

Gneiss

Ashie Fort

Trad

40

Conglomerate

Brin Rock

Trad/Sport

132

Gneiss

Farr Boulder

Bouldering

19

Gneiss

The Camel

Sport

13

Conglomerate

Ruthven Boulder

Bouldering

50

Gneiss

Stac Gorm

Trad

35

Gneiss

Conaglen

Trad

30

Quartzite

Inverfarigaig

Trad

5

Granite

Monster Buttress

Trad

4

Granite

A brief description of some of the local crags follows;

Duntelchaig NH643316


One of the earliest developed crags in the area with a good range of grades from Diff to E5. The most interesting lines follow well protected cracks and are single pitch although some excellent 2 (even 3) pitch routes exist. Best visited in the afternoon to get the sun, take a midge net in the summer months!


Dracula 2 pitches E3 5c*** A must do


Pinnacle Crag NH649322


A small crag, only 10m high but with 19 routes. Great for trad beginners in the area.


Ashie Fort NH601316


Another small crag (circa 10 m high) with a short walk in, but composed of a very solid conglomerate. The crag is suited to trad climbing. It is in a fine open setting and receives the sun till about 3pm in summer.


Brin Rock NH661292


Brin Rock has a range of styles to suit all comers; Trad, a selection of sport routes on two separate buttresses and bouldering. Described as "Airy and exposed climbing on very sound rock! A good head is required as protection is fairly spaced, but this makes the climbing all the better! Access is hard work up a steep densely vegetated slope but well worth the effort!"


Creag Nan Clag (The Camel) NH601288


Some superb sport climbing, can be chilly in the wind and beware it doesn’t get much sun after 1 pm. 60m rope required.


Ruthven Boulder NH636278


Pristine often sharp Gneiss, the landings are generally flat and good but pack your wellies as the walk in can be damp.


Stac Gorm NH633272


Known as the Tynrich Slab, provides some delicate and sometimes bold slab climbing, a good contrast to the nearby Ruthven boulder. With the bonus of an open sunny terrace with typically tranquil views.


There are several more crags in the area well worth visiting, plus a couple in the process of being developed that are not included here.

Details of routes are to be found in;

Highland Outcrops South (SMC 2016)

Scottish Sport Climbs (SMC 2013)

UK Climbing https://www.ukclimbing.com/

The area is also well served with climbing shops (Inverness) and the Sport Centre has a good indoor Climbing Wall and Bouldering Wall, for the times when the weather or midges prove too much.



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